Carbonara

Set a large pot of well-salted water on to boil. It should taste like the sea.

Drop the smoked bacon cubes into a cold, dry pan. Bring the pan up to medium heat slowly so the fat renders out before the meat browns. Cook until the bits are crisp and the fat is golden. Off the heat.

In a bowl big enough to hold the pasta later, whisk the egg yolks, whole egg, pecorino, and a heavy pinch of black pepper into a thick paste.

Drop the spaghetti into the boiling water. Cook to al dente — usually a minute less than the packet says.

Reserve a mug of pasta water before draining. Drain the pasta. Tip it into the bacon pan (still off the heat) and toss to coat in the rendered fat.

Tip the pasta and bacon into the egg bowl. Toss hard, splashing in pasta water a bit at a time, until the eggs turn glossy and the sauce clings — never let it scramble. Plate immediately, more pecorino and pepper on top.